Copy 2 



DVICE TO BEGINNERS 



IN- 



THE RABBIT INDUSTRY 



BY 
JOHN C. FEHR 




(The Blue Devil) 

Bred by the author and recently shipped 
to California 



PUBLISHED BY 

HARES AND RABBIT SUPPLY CO. 



Price 2^ 



Massachusett Avenue 

INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 



Phone Main 3980 



TRY OUR DISINFECTANT 

FEHR'S 

O G K 

ODORLESS GERM KILLER 

The only odorless disinfectant on the 
market today. 



c 



The odor from the majority of disinfectants is as disagreeable as 
the odor they are trying to destroy. This disinfectant kills the odor 
you wish to destroy and leaves a perfectly refreshing hutch. 

The most powerful Germicide and Disinfectant. For disinfecting 
houses, hospitals or any place where contagious diseases have been. 

RABBIT BREEDERS, ATTENTION 

This germicide is a necessity for every rabbit breeder, for no matter 
how clean your rabbitry is kept, you are still apt to be visited by that 
dreaded disease, "Snuffles." This will not cure snuffles, but it will 
prevent them by killing the germs. Any breeder who has had a case of 
snuffles, if he will thoroughly disinfect his place with O. G. K. after re- 
moving the stock, can put new stock in these same hutches, and I will 
guarantee that they will not contract the disease, for O. G. K. will pos- 
itively kill snuffle germs. Read what Prof. Thomas says. 

"Crawfordsville, Ind., April 29, 191 1. 
"To Whom it may Concern: 

"I have examined the formula for the composition of the disinfect- 
ant prepared by The American Disinfectant Co., and know that the 
preparation has strong germicidal and disinfectant properties. In one 
part in two hundred it will kill Micrococcus Pasteuri m two hours. In 
one part in fifty it will destroy pus cocoi in the same time. A five per 
cent, solution will destroy the spores of Bacillus subtillis in two hours. 

"As a germicidal agent it should be used in a two per cent, solution; 
as an antiseptic in a one-fifth per cent, solution. 

"M. B. THOMAS, Professor of Botany, Wabash College." 



Price, 2 oz. Bottle 50 cents. 

This two ounce bottle will make one gallon of the greatest germ 
killer made today. 

Prepared and for Sale by 

HARES AND RABBITS SUPPLY CO. 

609 Massachusetts Avenue. 
INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 



ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 



IN 



THE RABBIT INDUSTRY 



BY 
JOHN C. FEHR 



Licensed Judge and a Breeder of 
Rabbits for Years 






Copyrighted 1918 

by 

HARES and RABBITS 






INTRODUCTION 



Many have embarked in the rabbit business in the last two 
years. Unfortunately many, too, have made failures, inexpe- 
rience being" the chief cause in many cases. Others were 
misled by publications that were issued years ago. The rabbit 
business has made progress and we have developed new 
methods, the same as any other business. I shall try to give 
true facts, no exaggertions ; facts and knowledge that I 
have gained through years of breeding. And if I shall be 
able to start some one out right so that they may avoid some of 
the bitter experiences that I and many others have had, I will 
feel well repaid for my efforts. To start right in the rabbit 
business, it is well for the beginner to decide which breed he 
likes or fancies best, also decide whether you intend to breed 
utility stock or fancy exhibition stock. In either case it is very 
essential that your foundation stock be strong and vigorous. 
We often hear this remark: "Oh, I don't want any fine stock; 
T am only going to breed utility stock." 

To get good utility stock you must have good, healthy, vig- 
orous breeders. The most popular utility rabbits at present are 
the Belgian Hare, Flemish Giant and the New Zealand. The 
American Blue will no doubt be right in the front ranks before 
longr. 



ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 



HOUSING 



Since the housing and management of most all domestic 
rabbits is about the same I shall not go into detail regarding 
the different breeds. There are two different ways of housing, 
the outdoor rabbitry and the indoor rabbitry. There is no half- 
way. You must have them either housed in a good, ventilated 




VIEW (>F AX UP-TO-DATE INDOOR RABBITRY. 

building without drafts, or you must have them out in the open 
with only a roof to protect them from the rain and the extreme 
heat, with an apartment entirely closed with the exception of a 
hole large enough lor them to enter, in which they are protected 



IN THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. 5 

during the extreme cold weather. See cuts which show both 
plans. 

Some of the best stock I have ever judged was raised in out- 
door rabbitries, and there is no doubt that before long this plan 
will be adopted by most of the prominent breeders. One great 
advantage in the outdoor hutch is, that should one of your rab- 
bits contract any contagious disease, it is not near as apt to 
transmit it to the other stock. 

While on one of my trips out West, I had the pleasure of 
visiting Reed Storm's outdoor rabbitry at Kansas City. The 
thermometer stood at 12 degrees below at the time, but at that 
he had about twelve to fourteen litters of young in these hutches 




AN IDEAL OUTDOOR RABBITRY. 



ranging in age from six days to six weeks, and a happier or 
healthier lot of rabbits I never saw. So I claim, if you can breed 
rabbits in outdoor hutches successfully in Kansas you can do it in 
any State in the Union. The average beginner will usually 
start in on a very small scale, probably with one pair, which is a 
very good plan, as he will have more time to study the nature 
and wants of his stock, therefore, he will need no elaborate 



ADVICE TO BEG] NNERS 



lunches at the start. After he has gotten well along it is time 
enough to plan for his rabbitry. We show several different 
plans which have proved successful. 



FEEDING 



The feeding of rabbits no doubt has been discussed more 
than any one thing regarding rabbit culture. Some will say, 
feed all the greens they will eat ; others say don't feed any. Per- 
sonally, I feed very little green stuff, but I know prominent 
breeders who feed all the greens their rabbits will eat, and they 
are having splendid success. 

I find that if one intends to feed much greens, you must 
start in gradually to increase greens and cut down on dry feeds. 
We also find that if the doe has been fed mostly greens while 
pregnant that the young will show no ill effects if given greens 
at a very early age. If you are having success with your present 
way of feeding, don't change. It is time enough when you see 
that your system of feeding does not agree with your stock. 
We find that alfalfa hay, third crop, or clover hay, the first crop, 
is the best ; good oats and a change to barley once in a while are 
excellent. Carrots are very good at all times, especially for the 
does with young. Dried carrot tops, beet tops, or in fact, dried 
leaves of any kind are very much relished by both young and 
old. I have often noticed when feeding some lawn clippings, 
if there should be a dried leaf among them that the rabbits will 
pick it out first. In feeding always try to have regular hours, 
and by all means favor the mother does with the litter, for the 
more you do for her, the better will be her offspring. When 
your stock is in a moult, with rough coat, try giving a teaspoon- 
ful of whole flaxseed in their oats about two times a week; also 



IN THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. 7 

give them a good brushing down with a stiff brush. This treat- 
ment is also fine for stock you wish to show. After you have 
brushed all the dead hair out rub them down with your hand, 
then with a very soft rag. Some advocate using a drop of 
sweet oil, but 1 find that if they have been given the flaxseed 
it is not necessary for there will be enough oil in their coats to 
give a fine luster. 

I believe there are more rabbits killed by overfeeding than 
by not being fed enough. By this I do not wish to encourage 
underfeeding. • A small handful of oats or barley in the morn- 
ing and enough good, clean hay to last them until the next feed 
is all that is necessary with the exception of some carrots or 
other roots ; or, if you have some nice green stuff you may give 
them just enough that the)- will clean up in a short time. I find 
that the breeders who work out their own system of feeding are 
the most successful. A little good judgment and common sense 
will soon learn you just about what is agreeing with your stock. 
The rabbit is just like the human. In the spring of the year we 
need a tonic. I find that plantain and dandelion are just what 
your rabbits need in the spring. 



MATING 



We will assume that your stock is in the proper place with 
the sexes separated. I prefer to mate young does to old bucks, 
and old does to young bucks. Always put the doe in the buck's 
hutch for serving, for should you put the buck in the doe's hutch, 
she may think that he is intruding and put up a fight. If she is 
not in season she will let it be known by whining and running 
away or by laying down flat and refusing to rise up. Take her 
out and try again the next day and keep on until she is served. 



8 



ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 



One service is enough. Then try her again in four days. Now 
o-ive the does the best of care and attention and plenty of good 
clean feed, such as hay, oats, carrots and a little greens. In 
about twenty days after service put in a nest box about 14X14X 
20 with a 6"x6" hole in the end. Then throw plenty of straw in 
the hutch, not the box, for she wishes to carry that in to suit 
herself. In thirty days from time of service you may look for 
the young. The day before she is due, have plenty of food be- 
fore her, also fresh water, as they often have a fever which 
sometimes causes an abnormal appetite and if they do not get 




■^^Mm&^-^y%$m<-' 



ft 



■■ 
_ . 



~ 




3 FT. 



12 IN. A 



\ VKRY CONVENIENT HUTCH FOR OCT OR INDOORS. 



what they desire they often destroy or even eat their young. 
The day after she has had her young, take her out of the hutch, 
without exciting her any more than you can help, and let her 
run around. While she is away take out the nest box and count 
the young. If there are more than six, sort out the smallest 
ones ; or, if there are any off-colored ones, and destroy them. 
Put the remaining ones in the hutch and then put the doe back. 
The more care and attention you give the mother does during 



IN THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. 9 

this period the more success you will have with the young. Some 
breeders wean the young at four to six weeks, but I claim it is 
absolutely wrong to do that. I never wean the young until they 
are at least ten weeks old and twelve weeks is better. The dan- 
gerous period of a rabbit's life is from weaning time until they 
are about four months old. After they are about two months 
old they begin to shed their baby coat, and it usually takes about 
a month. So if you leave them with their mother during this 
dangerous period you will be well repaid. 

The young may not get very much nourishment from the 
mother during the last month, but what they do get seems to 
help them get their new coat, and the food that they eat builds 
their frame and bone. Remember, six good rabbits are worth 
more than twelve of medium grade. Now, after you have 
weaned this litter, let your doe rest about two weeks, and if she 
is not in the best of condition, let her rest until she is. Then 
you can breed her again. In this way you can get from three to 
four litters of good stock in a year. 



DISEASES OF RABBITS 



In looking over the different pet stock journals and seeing 
the amount of different rabbit remedies one would almost come 
to the conclusion that the rabbits are subject to all diseases, 
when in fact we have only one disease that can be considered 
a drawback to the industry, and that is "snuffles." Most of 
your trouble will come from inattention to your stock. As 
snuffles is one of the greatest drawbacks to the rabbit industry, 
I shall give some plain facts regarding this disease. The dis- 
ease starts with a cold ; the rabbits begins to sneeze and dis- 
charge at the nose; the discharge at first is almost transparent; 



10 ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 

it then becomes a whitish color; in the last stage it becomes 
yellow and thick. This disease being very contagious, it is very 
important that the rabbit be taken away from the other stock 
as soon as you detect the slightest indication of the disease, then 
thoroughly disinfect the hutches with a good germ killer. Treat 
the rabbit affected with any of the so-called snuffle cures, which 
usually will cure a cold if detected in time. I have found some 
of these snuffle cures very good for colds, and if they were ad- 
vertised as cold cures instead of snuffle cures, the public would 
have more confidence in the remedy and the manufacturer also. 
If by treating the rabbit for ten days to two weeks you can 
see no improvement, I would advise killing it. This may seem 
hard, but it is the only way we are going to get rid of this disease, 
for so long as we continue to harbor, sell and breed this kind of 
stock, just so long are we going to have snuffles in our hutches. 



SLOBBERS 



Slobbers is no doubt the next most prevalent disease. This 
is caused by the young not getting enough for proper nourish- 
ment from the mother doe. They eat the coarse food which they 
cannot digest, which causes their stomachs to become out of 
order. This is also caused by stock that is closely inbred and 
very low in vitality. If caused by the latter, dispose of it, other- 
wise feed the mother doe good nourishing food, such as bread 
and milk, carrots, barley, oats, and the young will soon pick up. 
You may also rub a little salt on the mouths of the young so 
affected. Let them eat a pinch, which will do them good. It is 
also good to take their food and water from them for about 
twelve to fourteen hours. Young out of good, healthy, vigor- 
ous breeders will seldom have slobbers. 



IN THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. II 

Ear canker is also very prevalent, but is very easily cured. 
Make a salve of sulphur and sweet oil and apply to the inside of 
ear, which should do the work in a very few days. The rabbit 
is subject to practically all diseases that the human is, so if you 
will watch your stock and use good judgment and give them the 
proper care you will have very little trouble. Remember, you 
can treat the rabbit exactly as you would a human for practically 
all ailments. 



DONT'S 



Don't see how many young you can breed ; see how good you 
can get them. 

Don't breed your does more than four times a year. To get 
winners, three times is still better. 

Don't allow your doe to keep more than six to a litter, and 
if you expect to produce good, large, vigorous breeding stock, 
three or four is much better. 

Don't keep your stud bucks where they will see the does 
unless it is a doe you intend to mate to the buck, as this only 
causes him unnecessary excitement, and is harmful. 

Don't expect to get large stock out of a short coupled doe. 
Remember, we get size from the doe and color and type from 
the buck. Therefore, we find the extremely long-bodied does 
are usually the best producers. 

Don't breed Flemish or Checkered Giants under ten months 
old. Belgians, New Zealands, American Blue and Lops may be 
bred at eight months, but, personally, even in these varieties, I 



12 ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 

prefer to wait until ten months. Dutch, English, Tans, and all 
the small fancy breeds may be bred at six months. 

Never breed brother and sister. If you must inbreed, do it 
with a system, and line-breeding is the only safe way. But if 
you have no intention of going all the way, don't start. There is 
a line-breeding chart on the market, which explains this system 
in full. 

Don't feed green stuff to young under two months old, and 
very sparingly then. Some of the most successful breeders 
never feed green stuff, using only roots, such as beets, turnips 
and carrots, carrots being the best, especially for the mother 
and her young. 

Don't breed your stock when in moult. You will be unable 
to produce young with a good coat. 

Don't use your stud buck more than two or three times in a 
week. 

Don't let him serve the doe more than once. After he has 
served her once, take him out, and in about four days try her 
again. If she refuses, take him out and in about four days try 
her again, and if she refuses you can be reasonably sure that she 
is bred. 

Don't put stock in outdoor rabbitries in winter which have 
been purchased from a breeder who has indoor hutches. If you 
wish to accustom your stock to outdoor hutches, move them out 
in the spring. 

Don't get the idea that when your rabbit sneezes "it has a 
cold," and when your neighbor's rabbit sneezes "it has snuffles. 1 ' 

Don't sell a rabbit because it is a poor breeder or is subject 
to colds. The best thing to do is to put it on the meat block. 



IN THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. 1 3 

Don't envy your neighbor because he has better stock. Get 
busy and you will soon enjoy the friendly rivalry which makes 
the exhibiting of rabbits one of the greatest of all hobbies. 

Don't pay any attention to such heading as this : One doe 
will produce 300 or 400 pounds of meat in one year. Just such 
a heading: as this is what has put many a beginner to the bad. 

Use a little common sense, and, by all means, 

Don't begin breeding rabbits with a lead pencil. Just be- 
cause four and four are eight, that is no reason to believe that 
if one doe has four good young in one litter that two does will 
have eight good ones in a litter. 

The Future of the Rabbit Business 



Will the present prosperity in the rabbit business continue, 
or will the bottom drop, all at once, as it did during the Belgian 
Hare boom some eighteen or twenty years ago? Personally, 
I believe the rabbit has come to stay, for this war has taught the 
American people how to save and economize, and it is an undis- 
puted fact that rabbit meat can be produced at less cost than any 
other meat in the country, and at that it is second to none in 
nutriment and taste. Another point in our favor is this : After 
the war the European countries will have to be supplied with 
breeding stock, for France, Belgium, Holland, and in fact, all 
the countries at war, were breeding rabbits very extensively. 
No doubt they are all depleted. It will be up to us to replace this 
stock, and I can see no reason why we should not see carloads of 
rabbits exported to these countries. Therefore, to supply this 
demand and the demand which we are sure to have from the 
number of new beginners, I can see no reason why the prospect 



14 



ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 



for the rabbit business in the future is not very bright. In fact, 
I do not believe that we will be able to supply the demand for 
breeding stock alone for several years to come. Then no doubt 
prices will settle down to a standard; but even at that, with the 
price of other meats, there is a good margin of profit in breeding 
for meat alone. 

ri mi in i mi in i f j 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■ i > 1 1 1 r 1 1 1 ■ 1 1 1 ■ 1 1 1 j 1 1 1 1 mil Illinium mil Illlllllllllllllllllll iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiii inn IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIiiii n 





POPULAR PLAN OF AN UP-TO-DATE RABBITKY. 



IX THE RABBIT INDUSTRY. 1^ 



CONCLUSION 



In conclusion, I wish to make it plain that the "Golden Rule" 
applies to the rabbit business probably more than any other busi- 
ness. Before pricing a rabbit to one of your customers, always 
ask yourself, "Would you pay that much for this rabbit?" I 
firmly believe a breeder should get a good price for his stock; 
in fact, he should get a very good price if he has produced some- 
thing the other fellow could not produce, and who needs just 
such an animal. But, just because such an animal is worth $50 
or even $100, do you think an animal half as good should be 
worth $25 or $50? "Absolutely, No!" I find too many begin- 
ners who ask from $4 to $10 for their culls and expect to buy 
good stock for from $6 to $8. So, for the good of the rabbit 
business in general, and for your own benefit, play the game on 
the square, and you will work yourself into a good profitable 
business. John C. Fehr. 

My book, "The Flemish Giant, for Pleasure and Profit," 
will soon go to press, in which I will give my experience in the 
breeding of Flemish, which undoubtedly is the most wonderful 
breed today. Price per copy, 50 Cents. 




4»i » ■ 



Keep a Correct Record of Your Rabbits 




USE 

Febr's 

Original 
Adjustable 

All 

Metal 

Ear 
Marker 



Complete with liquid tattoo ink and full directions. 



Prices $1.00 Postpaid 

For Sale by 

HARES AND RABBITS SUPPLY CO. 

609 MASSACHUSETTS AVENUE 

INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 



Also by A. H. Mackay, Marlboro, N. Y., Eastern Distributor; L. S. Griffin, Colorado 

Springs, Colo., Western Distributor; R. D. Rhodes, Burlington, Wis., 

Northern Distributor. 



Wanted- -Good live wire for Southern Distributor. Write for terms. 



4— — — 



Hares and Rabbits 




NDI I»MW"»»7"Si20 

609 Massachusetts Ave. WO^O^^^ 

IF IT'S FOR THE RABBIT WE HA VE IT 

We carry in stock a complete line of remedies, consisting 
of the following-: 



Mackay's Remedies 
Dr. Bird's Remedies 
Geo. C. Eckert's Remedies 



Young's Easy Tan in 50 cent and $1.00 cans. 

Sanitary Salt Blocks, 5 cents each. 

Pedigree Blanks, Shipping Cards, Hutch Cards, Etc. 

Griffin's and Dague's Pedigree Books. 

We also buv and sell Pedigreed and Registered Stock at all times 



ALL METAL 



Drinking and Feed Cups 





^ 



METAL BOP^^E^^TOMTO 
4 BE FILLED WITH CEMENT. 

No Breakage in Shipping or in Winter by Freezing 

This cup is light, and the freight will be far less than on other cups. But at 
the same time, when bottom is filled wit; it will bo much heavier than 

any other cup and consequently no upsetting, which causes damp hutches and 
waste of feed. 

15 cents each; $1.75 per dozen; $14.00 per 100 

F. O. 1$. Indianapolis 
Manufactured and for Sale by 

HARES AND RABBITS SUPPLY CO. 

609 Mass. Ave., Indianapolis, Ind. 




Hollinger Corp. 



